Vacation in Paradise; Home of Nuclear Weapons, Global Warming, and Homosexuality

After my Kilimanjaro hike with my partner in crime Jeff he came and stayed at my home here at Mzumbe Secondary School. It was great to be able to have some one from home experience what my life is like here in Tanzania. We spent a lot of our time exploring the area on bicycles; we put a couple hundred miles on our bikes in a two week span. It was enjoyable showing him around and introducing him to my community, it gave me a new appreciation of the opportunity that I have here in Tanzania.
As Jeff left my house to visit the island of Zanzibar I boarded a plane bound for the great U.S of A. to be the best man in my brother’s wedding. After forty hours of single serving cuisine and crying babies I was back home in Colorado and looking out at my beautiful Rocky Mountains, around the people that mean the most to me.
It didn’t take long for me to dive into and enjoy the luxuries of the lifestyle in Colorado: clean water, time with friends and family, high-speed internet, grocery stores, walking my dogs in the mountains, riding a bike peacefully, and beer on tap. It was paradise! I have never experience the sensation of being on vacation at home, it was an anomaly. I knew I would go home after my experience in Tanzania and my perception of the world would change. Now I have come to recognize I love where I come from, even though it has its flaws and is not perfect it’s hard to beat. I suppose it is like the old cliché ‘the grass is always greener on the other side,’ it’s in our nature as humans not to appreciate what is right in front of us. It’s easy to sit and complain and nitpick at the flaws when we live with our comfortable lifestyle around us in the States with our health care system, public schools, country wide infrastructure, and a diverse economy. I know that each one of the preceding comforts any one of which you can get on a soapbox and dissect and point out the flaws but I think it’s important to sit back and think of how far we have come. A hundred years ago think of the state of the union in America and then here in Tanzania for instance; today Tanzania a hundred years later 80% of the population are still farming acres of land with a hoe and praying for rainfall. It only takes a single session of the evening news in the States to become very critical of the state of America and to start counting down to its possible demise, as a Tanzanian once told me “it’s because of Americans fast pace lives we have nuclear weapons, global warming and homosexuality.” I have to make sure I am transparent here; I have serious issues with that comment but it’s poetic in its context that such conclusions can be made if you let the media think for you and only look at things from the surface with an uneducated and critical view of the world.
A good dose of appreciation and optimism is important when being critical of the atmosphere in America and being conscience of our roots; it has been Americans unwillingness not to accept the current state and to believe with hard work there must be and is a better way.

Since I have returned to Tanzania I have been able to dive back into school. My first week back everyone was curious about my travels and wanted to know where their gifts from America were. I don’t think that I broke too many hearts and was able to get gifts for the important people around me here in Tanzania. This week I have been busy with being teacher on duty and working with other teachers grading exams for our school and other surrounding schools, we have been putting in nine hours a day grading exams. When a student asked me how I like grading, it gave me the perfect opportunity to give him the definition of the word tedious.
Another great advantage about going home was that I was able to meet up with an old teacher now colleague at Rocky Mountain High School. We were able to organize pen-pals for our students. Today my students finished there first letters and I hope to have them in the main soon, to say they are excited about the project is an understatement! It has already been a great way to open up dialog about teaching English and American Culture, and my hope is they will learn more about there own culture too. My only issue now is that I have students other than my own in the school asking for pen-pals their age; so if any one out there would like to write a student here at Mzumbe please let me know.
In the next couple of weeks the new group of education volunteers for Peace Corp will be arriving and am looking forward to meeting them, and being some what of a veteran volunteer for them. But more than that it will mark my first year here in Tanzania, I survived and still loving my time here!

Kilimanjaro

We started our hike on a Friday with a tour company Jeff’s host family helped set up for us. We deemed our group the ‘Motley Crew’, our guide was named Simba and our assistant guide was Sam. Our first sign that we got a discounted tour company is when we were stopping by Simba’s house to pick up things like cups and other cooking equipment from his house on our way up to the trail head. We would also find out this morning that our party of hikers had grown from our original four; Maja and Jacob (Danish volunteers) and Jeff and me, to five with Eno a middle-aged educator from Southern California added at the last minute. We knew we were going budget because I would not settle for paying too much and as I have learned here, every price in Tanzania is negotiable.

We got to the trail head Machame Gate where our route would start nicked named ‘The Whisky Route’ and of course Jeff and I being the traditionalist that we are had to bring some whiskey…it’s tradition, and who are we to argue that. To get through the gate we had to wait for all the porters and guides to get weighed to make sure that they were not caring more that 25 kilograms each and that all the porters had appropriate gear. There were about thirty porters at the gate begging for the use of their services wishing that a tour company would miss plan and need additional porters. By the time we had all our porters check in and made their weight and had paid our park fees around $100 U.S. a day each, we were on are way but not before watching at least two other companies go through the gate while our Motley Crew got organized. The first day was an easy six hour hike through the rainforest to Machame hut which was a nice start to the week. We had a light drizzle but it was a good day for hiking. We were fortunate enough to see a troop of black and white colobus monkeys on our way, the only animals we would see the whole trip. We arrived to Machame hut in good spirits and excited for our first night on the mountain. We came to our camp with our porters hurrying around to set up our tents. We were initially concerned to see that we had five small three person tents for five hikers and fourteen crew (guides, porters, and cooks). We were supposed to have three tents for us five hikers which meant that fourteen crewmembers were going to sleep in two tents. We had a group meeting and agreed that Jeff, Eno, and I could share so that they could have three tents for the fourteen of them; it was reassuring to know that they wouldn’t freeze at night with all those bodies in their tents.

Day two we woke up to fog and clouds and a light drizzle that wouldn’t stop on this day. We left Machame Hut and had a five hour walk for the day that would bring us out of tree line and to Shira Cave huts. Shira Caves are more like a group of about four scattered rock outcroppings that you might be able to fit a compact car under, which use to be popular places for the porters to sleep, but with new park regulations no one is allowed to stay in the ‘caves.’ Up until Shira Caves I had been doing my hike in Chaco sandals because I only had sandals and a pair of waterproof trail running shoes, not an ideal situation but my beloved hiking boots didn’t make it into the luggage back in Colorado. By this time most the Tanzanaias on the trail knew I was Ubungo which means I am not just a tourist, but live in Tanzania and can speak Kiswahili. When we arrived at Shira Caves a group of porters gathered around and was getting a kick out of me wearing sandals in the cold and me explaining to them that in Colorado sandals are always in season 12 months a year and that they weren’t just your any ordinary pair of sandals but Chacos.

On day three I finally swallowed my pride and wore my trail shoes, because our hiking professional Eno from Southern California a faithful member of the Sierra Club who has climbed every major peak in Southern California had informed me that his club would not allow someone with sandals on the trail regardless if he had a pack or not; we were hiking with day packs on with water and extra clothes in them while our porters carried our packs, very nice backpacks… on their heads. With my shoes tied tight we started off on our five hour hike to Barranco Hut. The day started off like the last cold, foggy, and drizzling. And the thing that started dawning on all of us was our camp would be one of the first ones up in the mornings but always the last group to leave, the Motley Crew was always a bit disorganized. It was about noon on our hike up to Lava Tower that day that the clouds cleared and the first glimpse of Kilimanjaro since our departure from Moshi town, and our first look at Mount Meru the only other prominent mountain around. It was beautiful and so surreal. For the last 48 hours we had been walking in a big cloud only able to see 20 meters around us and now in a matter of moments we were on the highest free-standing mountain, on our way to the highest point in Africa. Of course we had to stop and take a million pictures not knowing if this would be the only time the clouds would clear, after some time our guide Sam had a look like ‘you guys can’t honestly be taking more pictures.’ After filling our memory cards on our cameras we continued on to Lava Tower and stop for lunch at its base. Lava Tower is at 15225 feet which would mark the highest point of the day and it would mark the highest that Jeff or I have ever been on a mountain. Below Lava Tower was our first encounter with Thompson Safari Tours. Thompson Safari Tours is a U.S. based tour company that caters to the Champagne hikers, with their starting rate for a hike on Kilimanjaro being at least four times the cost we paid to hike. Talking with some hikers from the group they informed us this was the first time some of them had ever been hiking. Thompson Safari’s spared no expenses, with porters carrying everything from a sit down toilet to a shower tent up for the guest. If our Motley Crew was the budget tour company, Thompson Safari represented the other end of the spectrum. From this day on we always took great pride passing their group on the trail, it was like the kids from the other side of the tracks the ones who had to wear sandals to hike in but could still kick your butt. From Lava Tower we had to descend to our next Camp Barranco, and by the time we had reached camp we had walked back into the clouds. That night the clouds lifted and we had a beautiful night sky with a bazillion stars and a near full moon.

Day four started as usual as we watched all the other camps wake up and leave before us. And today we had to go up great Barranco, a stair step scrabble to the top of a ridge which we could see from our camp. It was comical watching people that morning in a continuous slow moving line of hikers and porters up this staircase of a climb to the top zigzagging across the mountain side. The climbed proved to be fairly easy that day with the slow pace that was forced by the staircase and the short hike to Karanga camp. We couldn’t believe it when we saw that for lunch Thompson Safari’s porters started ahead and set up two large tents with tables in them for the hikers just to eat lunch in. When they would finish their lunch the porters would take down the two tents and move ahead and set them up again at a different camp for the evening. Karanga camp was blessed with beautiful weather and an early arrival. Spent most the day sitting in the sun with clear skies around us and a sea of clouds below, reading a book, and watching Jeff chase ravens around that had swooped down and stolen his package of cookies. It was quiet humorous to see this raven flying away with an entire package of cookies and Jeff running after him and our porter friend Ayoubu telling me that the raven must be more cleaver then Jeff, a joke that would prove not to get old for the rest of our trip. In Jeff’s defense he did get his cookies back but felt he should relinquish some of his cookies to the raven for its gallant effort.

The following day would prove to be a nice easy hike to Baranco camp the last camp before our summit attempt. The hike was just three hours and Sam and I lightened the mood by teaching the rest of our group a simple little song in Swahili that became our marching song. I believed it might have started to annoy some of the other hikers around, not so much the song it self but the fact that we were passing other hikers out of breathe and we had enough to sing a nice little song that goes like this:

Jambo!

Jambo Bwana!

Habari gani?

Nzuri sana

Wageni, wakaribishwa

Kilimanjaro

Hakuna matata, hakuna matata

We arrived at Barafu Camp knowing that we were going to need to spend the day resting because we would be leaving that night at midnight to start our summit attempt with the expectation of reaching the summit for the sun rise. Barafu Camp was on a steep ridge just below the base of the glaciers at the top of Kilimanjaro. Day five was blessed with great weather and great views of Mawenzi peak from Barafu Camp. This to me seamed very unusal to have consitend good weather at this altitude. I am use to the peaks in Colorado where storms seem to roll in and out every couple of hours. The mood around camp was somber and full of anxiety. Jacob, one of the Danish volunteers, was feeling pretty ill, partly from the altitude and party from some dysentery he had acquired. I think we were all nervous, it was like the night before the big game. We tried to sleep and rest but I don’t know if we a got a single continuous hour of sleep before we would leave.

We awoke at midnight to a very cold evening and a slow start, again. We didn’t leave camp until one a.m. and Jacob ended up staying behind to get a full nights rest and he would start later in the morning after us. We were blessed with a full moon and it was a memorable feeling walking up the mountain that morning by moon light to see head lamps dance on the mountain side from the other hikers. This hike would prove to be exponentially more difficult then the rest of the days. The weather was cold around -10 Celsius, our water ended up being so cold that it was upsetting our stomachs at that altitude, and all of us were dealing with some degree of altitude sickness. The hike was slow, especially when we were walking on the snow fields, and the thin air influencing everyone. The push to Stela Point proved to be the most taxing. We were walking on a snow stair case and every step you took required its own breath. When we reached Stela Point we took a nice break and now had Uhuru Peak in our sight the highest point in Africa, the summit of Kilimanjaro, and dawn was upon us. We all got our second wind and pushed to the top. Jeff and I were talking as we prepared for the trip and the investment that it was for us and joked that if we didn’t reach the top that we would end up crying. But when Jeff and I reached the summit we both got choked up with the emotion of what we had accomplished and the beauty of the summit at sunrise. We were surrounded by glaciers and the beauty of God and could see for miles around. We had accomplished what we set out to do: 03˚04’35 South 037˚21’14 East elevation 19,340 feet…priceless!

The descend back down to Barafu Camp was enjoyable doing rapid mountain descent down scree fields and to see Eno who had fallen behind on our way continuing on to the summit and then to see Jacob on his way up to the summit feeling better than the night before. We got back down to camp by eleven a.m. and finished our whiskey and enjoyed a peaceful nap in celebration waiting for Eno and Jacob to return. That afternoon we would pack up and descent to Mweka Hut. Arriving at Mweka hut was notable putting to rest a very long and taxing day.

The finale day from Mweka hut to Mweka Gate was very tough on the knees dropping 15,000 feet in a matter of twenty four hours, pain that could only be healed with cold beers. The last day was a bit frustrating because it was the day to tip our guides and porters. The night before Simba came to our tent and did his nightly “How you feel everybody?” check in and game plan for the next day. Where he informed us that he should receive a 30% tip and just to give him the tips for the rest of the group and he would distribute it how he saw fit… We didn’t see it that way at all and I had to explain to him the concept of tipping, which is no way customary in Tanzania culture but is expected on Kilimanjaro and Safaris from tourist. Long story short some- of the guides and porters were very happy with their tips and others felt short changed. I guess you can’t please everybody.

The overall experience of Kilimanjaro was great. The finances of the entire trip definitely left its wounds on this volunteer but wounds that will easily be forgotten in time for the sake of an experience with a good friend and a great adventure that will never be forgotten.

No Food; No School

Thanks for all the birthday love, and congratulations Khloe(little sister) on Graduating!

My first birthday in Tanzania went well celebrated with some pork, friends and a chocolate cake that has been waiting in my pantry for the last five months for such a special occasion. It was goood!

For my birthday my friends from the University Jueng In, Brenda, and Danny treated me to a trip to Udizungwa Game Park. It was an amazing trip; we went on a hike to some water falls and were able to see a bunch of monkeys. My favorite part of the trip was swimming under the waterfalls and watching monkeys swinging from the trees, a dreamlike experience. Udizungwa is best known for the 14 different species of monkeys, two of which are only found in that region. We only spent one day in the park but I already want to go back. The park contains three major peaks and many large mammals other than the primates. The majority of the park is only accessible by foot and for many of the trips you must be accompanied by an armed guard; I hope to go back for a multi-day trip.

Around school things are a bit quiet now after term exams for ‘O’ level and all off my students have gone home for a six week break, which also means break for me! As far as the ‘A’ level they to have been heading home because our school is being forced to close because our food suppliers have failed to receive payments for the food and has stopped delivering the food. Since all the students at Mzumbe are boarding students the school has been forced to shut down completely. It is very frustrating knowing that we are the number one boy’s school in all of Tanzania and not having simple things like food requires us to shut down the school completely. It is important to note are school did get a new satellite dish and TV last week....Thanks Tanzania Department of Education; the resources are being well managed! I have just finished marking my term exams and am very pleased with the results from my students; they worked very hard for me. I initially had felt bad because they had 2.5 hours to complete the exam and no student had finished working on the exam, they all worked to the very end. They had some challenging questions on graphing, a skill they are unfamiliar with but worked hard none the less.

On the lighter side of things I have been doing a lot of hiking around Mzumbe I did 60 km in three days this last week, and found a short cut over the mountain to Mgeta village where my nearest Peace Corps neighbor lives. By taking the short cut I was able to cut a seven hour hike down to five hours, but the trail was very steep but beautiful. On the thirteenth of June I will be hiking Mount Kilimanjaro with my long time childhood friend Jeff. He has been working in Moshi for the last couple of weeks on a tree project to help the issues of deforestation around the Moshi area, so I will meet up with him this week before our Kilimanjaro Trip. I am really looking forward to the trip and hope we are successful; it is ‘winter’ time here so we hope the weather will cooperate for our summit attempt and so we can get some good pictures. I am very interested to see how cold it actually gets; Kilimanjaro is the only place in Tanzania that has snow. I am preparing for cold nights but I anticipate the days should not be bad.

After my Kilimanjaro trip I will return home and enjoy some down time around the school by reading some, attending weddings and preparing for the up coming semester that is if we ever get food back to our school.

Elway on the Daladala

Things at school are keeping me busy enough, I am teaching three different classes so I have three different preps to keep up with, but I am happy to be busy at school it keeps me out of trouble. I have even been having Saturday and Sunday classes for my form four math students because they have regional mock exams at the end of this month. No I am not torturing my students with weekend classes; they asked to have classes on the weekends…not me. My students here at Mzumbe don’t fall into the common mold of Tanzanian students they are some of the best in the country and they know what it takes to do well on the national exams, and the truth is they are at a all boys boarding school and there just isn’t all too much to do around here.

I presented a challenge the other day for my form three students who are taking my Additional Math class. Since I will be teaching them for the next two years and be responsible for teaching them the entire syllabus before their form four exams, our challenge…best scores on the exams in all of Tanzania; I hope by putting this out there it motivates me to play my role.

The rainy season is slowing to an end and I am very thankful for it! I was falling into cabin fever and needing time outdoors, and a chance to walk to the market with out getting covered in mud. My bike here has been great to get out and see the country around me and the other small villages scattered around me. I stop now and then and talk with the villagers and they are always happy to get to talk to a foreigner who knows Swahili and I have even picked up a couple of greetings in the local tribal language Uluguru. I find it quiet calming when I ride through villages other than mine and I here people say “Luka, Luka,” if not much changes around here during my time here at least I know I have penetrated people’s lives.

I have established one truth in my experience so far here in Tanzania, neither I nor any other foreigner is going to be the catalyst for change here in Tanzania …

I want to set it straight that I didn’t have an idealistic notion that I would change the history of Tanzania while I am here. A wise man said to me once “The world doesn’t need more problems it needs more solutions.” It easy to point out problems but it is the solutions that are rear and valuable. I find my self sitting back to think about the problems that are holding back Tanzania from water shortage, food shortage, feeble schooling system, poor info structure, and the 7% prevalence nation wide AIDS pandemic (many argue it’s much greater) just to name a few. From the AIDS problem alone many other problems are fostered like a dieing work force, a huge population of orphans, and I huge financial drain to the economic resources. These problems are very transparent to any one who stays in Tanzania for a significant period. Many good nature Non Governmental Organizations (NGOs) and Governments see the problems and offer support and money to those needy causes. The truth of the mater is that not all of the resources make it into the appropriate hands and corruption runs rampant in all areas of commerce, and it’s the Tanzanian leaders who are slowing progress for their country.

With the thought of so many problems lingering in my head I wonder what the solutions could be. I have come to believe that the best work here in Tanzania needs to be done by Tanzanian’s they have to own their situation and own the idea that the best resources already lie within their country. Tanzanians of all walks of life from government officials to the farmers in the fields need to own up to the ides that the solutions lie in the hands of the people, it’s not going to come by means of foreigners coming in and waving their magic wand and sprinkling it with money.

The people here love their country and their culture; and a great sense of unity exists here in Tanzania and a pride to be Tanzanian above all else. Tribalism has plagued many African countrys’ and it was the first president of Tanazania, Nyerere who was able to unite the people as a proud Swahili speaking East African country. They have growing markets in agriculture, mining, and tourism. The time has come for another great leader to come out of Tanzania and push it forward to a new Tanzania; one who believes that Tanzania has the resources to move forward and one who can persuade the masses to play their role of prosperity with out corruption.

There is a good amount of wealth in Tanzania and people are ready to invest in the future, but the money is distributed to a select few, and the rich keep getting richer. There was an article in one of the Tanzanian papers last week that was pointing out the need for Tanzania to move away from foreign aid and that many developed nations U.S. included where not helping out enough. Reading it made me think the writer to be a spoiled child that believes she is entitled to what ever she desire and if she can’t get it, it is at the fault of somebody else.

This last Saturday I had a man from a neighboring village that I had never met before come to my house, he told me that he heard their was a Peace Corps Volunteer from America at Mzumbe so he wanted to pay me a visit… What he really wanted was money. His story was that his sister was in the hospital diagnosed with AIDS and he needed money for ARVs (Anti-Retroviral) because they ‘lost’ the last prescription and she wouldn’t be able to get a refill for another three weeks from the dispensary. I was first skeptical when he showed me her card for ARVs, the card is distributed to individuals who can benefit from ARVs it has the patient’s name on it the medication their taking, the dispensary they are getting them from and the dates they receive medication and the dates which they are eligible for a refill, I have had a chance to work with these cards before at our PEPFAR workshop. These ARVs are given out for free to people who have been diagnosed with HIV; this program is financed by the money from PEPFAR. The card seemed to be a forgery by all accounts, stats about the recipients CD4 T-cells was missing and it only had one date of doctor visits on it. And that he said they ‘lost’ the ARV’s was not adding up, and knowing that there is a black market for these ARV’s; people who get the ARV’s for free and turn around and sell them for money. After talking with this man for some time and being convinced that he was just looking for a hand out told him I couldn’t help him out. For the rest of the day this bothered me… Could he be telling the truth? He wasn’t asking for a lot of money, I could afford to? Could I start giving hand outs to every person who came to my door? I even thought about going to his village and tell him I changed my mind. But what I couldn’t understand was that he walked out of his village, through another village, through Mzumbe University campus with its health center, passed by my secondary school and all the other teachers home’s, and came straight to my house on top of the hill, and asked the white foreigner for money.

On my way home last week in the daladala which is the public transportation system here best described as clown cars, for the reason that the amount of people and chickens they manage to shove into a daladala is unbelievable. I saw John Elway on my daladala, I couldn’t see his face but he had his Broncos #7 Jersey on with Elway on the back. John Elway in Tanzania riding a daladala! John Elway is black right…?

My encounter with John Elway on the daladala had me thinking on the way home, about how small this world is becoming. With internet, cell phones, and transportation everything and everyone is playing a more integral role in the prosperity of man kind. The relations we have with our neighbors are just as valuable as the relations we have around the world. What many of us are willing to through out others around the world utilize with great pride and resourcefulness, the market has expanded across the globe. So the leaders of tomorrow need to see the value in keeping good relations and a concern of the welfare of all ‘market players.’

The aid coming into Tanzania is a great thing for this up and coming country with so much to offer the world, but Tanzanian’s need to realize this and find leadership with in to push forward through the corruption and own up to the idea that they are the solution for their issues. With out this leadership Tanzania will never get over the hurdle of entitlement, and forever be dependent on foreign aid.

Maasai and Turtles

The rainy season is in full swing and the good news is that there is going to be a good harvest this year if the rains continue on; bad news it rains everyday for most of the day and there is mud EVERYWHERE you go. Since the rains have started I have put a good dent into by collection of books and am running out of things of interest to read, the volunteer before me was a big science fiction reader… I am not.

A couple of weeks ago before the rainy season was in full swing I got a chance to go to a Maasai village on their market day. The village market is on Fridays and I heard about it from some teachers at school and mentioned to Haji I wanted to go on Friday to visit and he was excited because his family lived near by that same village. So I met him on a Friday morning with our bikes and we started the hour bike ride to the village. I went with my Tanzanian friend Haji who has been a great friend because he is always getting dragged a long on my adventures here at Mzumbe. I like to have my Tanzanian escort because he knows everybody and can bull shit with the best of them… he’s the Zach Smith of Tanzania (inside joke). The down side, Haji likes to hold my hand… here you have to understand that it’s the way friends roll in Tanzania, homosexuality is illegal here so people of the same sex here hold hands and it doesn’t imply they’re gay like it does in many other cultures… I still feel really uncomfortable about it to be honest and always find myself pulling my hand away like a kindergarten student when they have to hold hands with the opposite sex for the first time in dance class.

The Maasai is one of the largest tribes in Eastern Africa and semi-nomadic, they are one of the few tribes whom are not farmers but herders. Much of Tanzania has been left as an open rage for the Maasai to run their cattle and goats, which is the primary source of meat in Tanzania. The Maasai are one of the few tribes whom for the most part still wear their traditional garments of blue/red material worn like a toga called a shuka or konga. They are a tall people that usually carry a sword in their belts, a long stick to keep the livestock in line, wear lots of beaded jewelry and have the stretched out holes in their earlobe; they are easy to pick out of a crowd. I like to think of them as the cowboys of the Serengeti; taking care of business, dressed to party, but they always remember to wear their peace maker.

So on Fridays the Maasai village has their market and all the herders will come into village with their livestock. In a field adjacent to the market all the animals which are for sale are kept. So local butchers come with their trucks and buy livestock and the Maasai can get new sandals, sword, beads, clothing, cooking material, and ex...

When Haji and I arrived on bikes of course I was getting the usual stares which I have come to like to think it’s because I am so dam good looking and not just because I am white, and it was a one of those ‘wow I am in Africa’ moments. A hundred or so Maasai all walking around catching up on the news with each other selling hides and other things, taking advantage of buying a cold Coka -Cola, and eating some roasted meat with livestock walking around. Haji knew one of the girls working a booth at the market so we left are bikes there and were able to walk around and look at the goodies, I purposely left my wallet at home because I knew I would have bought a couple of ‘impulse swords’, what could I do with a sword… As we were walking around I was wondering out load if one of my fellow teachers was there because he runs one of the butchery’s at Mzumbe. Before I could finish my sentence he was standing in front of me introducing me to his friends, it is nice to stick out of the crowd sometimes people find you. After talking with my teacher and sharing a drink I continued walking around and dreaming of Halloween costumes to be, we decided to embark to go visit Haji’s family.

Mind you that every time I go somewhere with Haji we have to meet his family, Tanzanian’s families are huge all cousins are brothers and sisters and all aunts and uncles are mothers and fathers so I have met a lot of his ‘family’. This time we were going to meet his 100% biological real parents whom lived ‘near by’ the market, ‘near by’… another 45 minute bike ride in the opposite direction from home. It was really nice to meet his parents and show my Swahili skills off (limited still but getting better) and to get out of the rain storm that had started. They were disappointed we couldn’t stay for dinner because they were going to kill a chicken for us. Haji’s mother said that I could get a wife for some goats if I wanted. I told here I was only in Tanzania for two years and she said that would be ok my wife could have other husbands. I am opting for the single life for now…

A phenomenon that occurs during the rainy season is that snakes, turtles and frogs come out from hiding. I thank got I haven’t seen any snakes and always walk with a flashlight at night because I am afraid to death of snakes and I joke with my teacher friend that if I ever see one around my house I m coming to his house and will make him come over and kill it. The other day one of the students killed a black mamba and a staff member killed a viper… YA I watch where I am going when I am walking around. As far as the turtles go I haven’t seen any walking around but I have had two different people come from the near by villages in the mountains and ask me to buy turtles they have found. I just don’t see why they thing because I am white I will want to buy a turtle… their must be a rumor floating around that the Whiteman wants to buy turtles. To put I stop to the rumors, I DON”T NEED A TURTLE.

Coincidence…HIV/AIDS at the Home Front, Two Weeks After My Return From the PEPFAR Conference

This weekend I went and had my weekly Sunday lunch with my Tanzanian Family, the food was delicious as always (beans and rice) and small changes of had been made around the home. New screens on the windows, two new plates, two new GLASS drinking cups, and a new pair of shoes for Mama Rachel; most women after having their first daughter change their name to Mama ‘first daughter’s name’ because of the pride in being a fertile women, so hence my sisters name is Rachel. The new things around the home sound very minimal to our culture in the States but are a big deal for my family here. My Tanzanian father had started his new job with the city of Morogoro in the pay role department in January, and now the reality of what it means for the family is materializing. The excitement on my fathers face when he served me lunch with the new dishes it was like a average student coming home from school with his report card and showing his parents his first ‘A’ on his report card, he couldn’t wait to see my expression. After I commented on the two new sets of dishes we were using, he eagerly got up and with great pride showed me the new shoes he had bought for Mama Rachel. My family is the new “Robinsons” on the block, not many house holds in my family’s village drink with real glasses.

After dinner while looking through the new calendar with my father and telling him of my excitement on getting a new bed made this week for my home he informed me that my mother’s brother was ill. He had been ill off and on for some time and he was now in the hospital very ill. The family had been urging him to go see a doctor for some time now because many believed that he had AIDS, because of his frequent and numerous illnesses. This time he had fallen ill to Malaria and his immune system was so weak the typical medications weren’t working. I asked how the family was dealing with it and he told me it was really hard because he is still young at 30 and the family had to keep at his bed side at the hospital to take care of him. The constant travel from their village in the Uluguru Mountains and the time away from their farms’ during this crucial time of the year before the rains was going to take a hard toll on the family emotionally and financially. After talking with the family some more and giving my condolences to Mama Rachel I knew I should help, my time is consumed at school so I gave them a little money. Tanzanians don’t have health insurance here and the only type of insurance comes by means of family and community support, so as part of the family I felt it was my place to help.

That week my friend who is from the same tribe as Mama Rachel, Luguru (the people of the mountains) we decided to try and make it to the top of the peaks near my home of Mzumbe. The peaks have sat and taunted me since the day I had arrived in Morogoro much like Long’s Peak back home on the front range in Northern Colorado. So this was the day we would make our attempt, he nor I didn’t know if there is a trail to the top or not but we would go as far as we could to find out. We started early in the morning and rode our bikes as far as they could take us and left them at a friends hut to watch until we would return in the afternoon. On our way up I wanted to stop and give my condolences to Grandmother Rachel, I was able to find her waiting for the daladala (public transportation: vans stuffed like sardines with people) to go and care for her son at the hospital. She was very happy to see me there and after talking to here for some time and expressing my grief for their situation we were off.

I have gotten a sense of what a celebrity might face going out in public in the States. Being white and walking through small mountain villages in Tanzania where they only see white people in town we didn’t walk by anyone with out the double or triple glance. Little school children running after us and following us up the mountain, with many people wanting to talk/ask for money and wondering why I want to walk to the top if I don’t have a purpose. You just want to walk? Yep, just want to see how far we can go! A culture that spends long hours on the farm and only walking the mountains when they have to bring fruits and vegetables to town for the market and return with supplies for the village they couldn’t understand I wanted to go for fun. It was hard to try and describe ‘fun’ because Swahili lacks the vocabulary for ‘fun,’ this helps to give a deeper understanding of the forthright culture the Tanzanians have. By early afternoon we had now gotten passed the many homes and farms that scattered the mountain side and were getting closer to the top and the pitch of the land was getting much steeper. I started to realize that the water I had brought was not enough and would have died to have a Powerbar… my prayer was answered by a local porter coming down the mountain from the village on the other side of the mountain. He was doing the hike with a large basket of cassava roots, these of which were carried balanced on his head which is the customary way. We stopped and talked to him for a bit and he offered us some cassava root; delicious when eaten raw once you get passed the ‘woody’ flavor and packed full of nutrients much like a Powerbar, and spoke of a cold water spring inside the forest on the other side of the mountain. He said he didn’t know of a trail to the very top and said it was impossible because of the land. I was momentarily disappointed accepting that we might not make the summit, but now that my 1.5 liters of water was down to drops the mere mention of COLD WATER was ringing in my ears. So we continued on making our way higher and higher at points using my hands to help up the trail the whole time thinking to my self that the villagers on the other side do this a couple times a week and with huge baskets on their heads… I was impressed to say the least. At the top of a small pass adjacent to the summit the rain forest had started to thicken up and only momentary glances of the summit or at least what I thought was the summit, were only possible when the thick forest offered a window and the pitch of the land was just right. I was starting to understand why without a trail to the top the summit was a fantasy and would involve better planning, large machetes, and ropes and tackle.

At last we reached the legendary COLD WATER spring on top of the ridge. Now the question at hand: Do I drink un-boiled water in a land of some of the worst parasites known to man? or go thirsty? …The water was brisk, COLD, and refreshing! When we arrived at the spring some of the porters where there eating sugar cane and drinking water on their way back to their village, they were very friendly and begged for us to continue on and come and visit, with promises of a wife for me and many other gifts. They said that their village never gets guest because there is no road and it is very difficult to get to. They informed us that it was about another two hours, and when we asked if we would make it back to our bikes before dark they just laughed… We continued on our way to get some more pictures of the forest and the beautiful landscape and a hope to get a window past the trees and a panoramic look of my school down below, but decided to return after the trail started dropping down the other side of the mountain and fear we wouldn’t make it back before dark. I was able to make it back right at dusk dead tired, sunburned, thirsty, and feeling thankful for the day in the Uluguru Mountains.

The following week I got news that Mama Rachel’s brother had passed away and I brought the family an assortment of fruits and my sympathy for their loss. My feeling of bewilderment and invisibility that I hadn’t fallen ill from my game of Russian roulette with the COLD WATER was disparaged by the gratitude of the life I live, when others aren’t as fortunate.

HIV/AIDS "If You Focus On the Problem You Can't See the Solution"

I have just returned from the PEPFAR (President’s emergency plan for AIDS Relief) conference in the Mbeya region of Africa, mandatory for all volunteers and our Tanzanian counterparts. The trip over all was a lot of fun to meet up with fellow volunteers and hear how their experience has been going. PEPFAR is using its resources in education and supplying care to those living with HIV/AIDS with counseling and medication for free to those that have tested positive. As far as the conference dealing with PEPFAR it was great to have a forum of discussion with Tanzanian counterparts but it was hard to feel big responsibilities to help with such a wearisome problem, mixed emotions, and many unanswered questions.

For starters the HIV/AIDS epidemic is very trying matter for Tanzania with a country as a whole at about 7% with 1.3 million estimated Tanzanians affected, and this is data from 2005 which to date is expected to be much more prevalent. I had a chance to visit another volunteer’s site where his village had a 30% prevalence of HIV/AIDS. So I am 100% on board with doing what I can while I am here to help out. Many of the funds are being dumped into education. 99% of the population knows about HIV/AIDS, but only about 22% of the at risk population is using condoms, and the vast majority is contracting HIV from sex. Then once they have tested positive for HIV they get free medical attention that would not be available without PEPFAR funds. We had a chance to sit and talk with some Tanzanians that are living with the disease and that was a priceless experience, so very grateful for the medication and a chance to share their experience. So a long story short, Tanzanians are very aware of the disease and how it can be prevented but are not changing their behaviors. So the question I couldn’t keep asking is how can you make the next step and change their behaviors? That’s the billion dollar question…

I have been living in country for 5 months now and have witnessed a country engulfed with poverty, but understand I am still not fully aware of the complexity of the situation. What I do know is 90% of the population are farmers and rely on the weather and God’s will to survive and see the next day. Many go uneducated and get dropped out of the education systems just to return back to being farmers. In a world where water is a luxury; free instant pleasures are priceless! Trying to stop that and tell them they need to wear a condom so they don’t contract a disease that with kill them in a couple of years if untreated and treated for FREE can give you another 10 years, the problem doesn’t conceptualize them to change their behaviors. The answer I see more beneficial is giving more people a positive future to invest their behaviors in. So is dumping all this money $15 million into education and being a broken recorded best directed or better directed in development projects? Could Bush’s PEPFAR and his visiting Africa a big publicity stunt for him and the U.S.? Could they believe that development is the solution but know if resources are directed there it would create a country/continent that would require more precious natural resources and be a threat? I don’t want to imply any of this as facts or even my own opinion but these are the questions that I couldn’t get out of my mind and stressed over. What I know is that I am a teacher and I believe in education so, while here I will continue to be the broken record until a better solution is presented (please feel free to comment I would love to hear opinions/facts/stories).

I am still really enjoying my students and have been impressed with what they come to the classroom with, meager means but a lot of motivation and brilliance. I wish there was more that I could give them, I find my self asking many questions in a Socratic way unrelated to mathematics to get them to talk more about their country and culture. At the end of the day they are the future and the ones who have to make the changes and own the responsibilities of this country.